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Sunday
March 14, 2010 Since 1922 |
Time to plan winter garden
From staff reports
Baytown Sun Published September 26, 2009 As the warm months of summer begin cooling off with the approach of fall, now is the time to start planning your fall and winter garden. Remember: just because the temperatures drop, you do not have to let your yard turn into a wasteland!
GROWING A FALL GARDEN
So you want to grow garden fresh vegetables this fall. Where do you start? Simply looking at seed packets in catalogs or local nurseries will not get the job done. One must garden smartly if economical production and utilization are expected.
Once the decision to have a fall garden has been reached, a gardener must take action. One must pull out some of those plants that have been nurtured from "babies" in the spring to monsters now. It is recommend that all plants be removed except okra, cherry tomatoes and pole beans if the foliage is healthy. Large-fruited tomatoes may have some small ones still hanging on, but unless you have at least 20-25 good-sized fruit, pull them out. Pull the old plants up and discard them. Don't try to compost insect and disease-ridden plants.
Then, determine where to put the garden. The major consideration for garden placement is sunlight. All vegetables require some sunlight; the most popular vegetables require full sun (at least 8 hours of intense, direct exposure). If such exposure is not received by crops like tomatoes, peppers and squash (vegetables that contain seed), the plants grow spindly – they have weak stems, drop blooms and are generally nonproductive. There are vegetables that produce passably in the shade. Generally, those crops such as greens, broccoli, cauliflower and root crops (carrots, turnips) which do not produce a fruit with seed will yield sparingly in semi- shaded areas, but even these crops will do better in a full sun condition. Crops such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans and cucumbers may not produce anything if grown in the shade; plants will grow tall and spindly.
Some gardeners believe shading is beneficial, but remember that commercial vegetable producers never shade crops. Use shade-tolerant crops for planting between larger growing vegetables such as tomatoes.
Do not locate the garden within 6 feet of hedges, shrubs or trees.
If a new garden site has been selected and it was previously covered with grass, this turf must be removed. Don't think that you can dig or till this existing grass into the garden soil and get rid of it. New garden areas are doomed before they begin if all bermuda and other lawn grass is not completely removed before tillage begins.
What about chemicals that might be applied to the grass to kill it rather than pulling it out? There are several brand names which contain the weed and grass killer glyphosate. These include Roundup and Kleenup – check ingredients on label for the term "glyphosate" and follow label instructions for application rate.
Once the sod has been removed, the garden area should be shoveled to a depth of 10-12 inches. Rototillers can be used to loosen and mix shoveled areas. Apply 1 to 2 inches of coarse (sharp), washed sand and 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to the garden site surface and incorporate to improve the soil's physical quality. The soil's physical condition will have to be altered over a period of time rather than trying to develop desirable soil in a season or two.
The addition of fertilizer is the next step. You have two options. You can add only one pound of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) per one hundred square feet (10 feet by 10 feet) and use ammonium sulfate every three weeks at the rate of one tablespoon sprinkled around each plant and watered in as a sidedress application for hybrid tomatoes and peppers. The second fertilization choice is to use 2-3 pounds of a slow release fertilizer (19-5-9, 21-7-14, 25-5-10) per 100 square feet of garden area. Even if slow release fertilizer is used, it is still recommended to use ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) every three weeks at the rate of one tablespoon sprinkled around each plant. Horse or cattle manures may be substituted for commercial fertilizer and used at a rate of 60-80 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area.
After all ingredients have been added, mix the soil thoroughly and prepare beds on which to plant rows of vegetables. These beds should be 30-36 inches apart to allow for easy movement through the garden area when plants get larger. Pile and firm the planting beds then pre-irrigate the entire garden area by wetting with a sprinkler for at least two hours. Allow the area to dry for several days and it will be ready to plant.
Proper timing is probably the most important factor in successful fall gardening. Regardless of variety selected or cultural practices used, if a gardener does not do the right thing at the right time, any chances of success are diminished.
See the chart that lists the planting dates for the Southeast Texas region (Page 12C) to see when to begin planting vegetables. Remember these are "average" planting dates for the region.
With these dates in mind, a gardener can decide which frost-susceptible vegetables to plant, when to plant and whether to use transplants or seeds.
Fall vegetable crops are categorized as long-term and short- term crops. Duration of these crops depends on when the first killing frost occurs and the cold tolerance of the vegetables.
Plant long-term, frost-tolerant vegetables together. Frost- tolerant vegetables include beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, garlic, kale, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsley, spinach and turnips.
Plant short-term, frost-susceptible vegetables together, so that they can be removed after being killed by frost. Frost-susceptible vegetables include beans, cantaloupes, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, okra, peas, peppers, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, tomatoes and watermelons.
HARVESTING OF FALL
GARDEN PRODUCE
After gardeners have worked so hard and so long to grow fresh, could-be-delicious produce, many are often robbed of their potential goodness because of improper, ill-timed harvesting. To avoid that occurrence, a number of the most popular garden vegetables and the harvest procedure for each are listed.
BEANS, SNAP - Harvest before maturity when pods are not completely full for maximum tenderness. Wash immediately and refrigerate.
BEETS - Early beets should be pulled from the row when about 2 inches in diameter. Remove all but about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of the tops. Wash and refrigerate immediately.
BROCCOLI - Broccoli heads should be harvested when they reach a 4 to 8 inch diameter and are firm and compact. Maximum size potential can be determined by watching the floret development. Broccoli heads appear to be singular structures when actually they are composed of many individual flowers called florets. When individual groups of florets begin to loosen and emerge from the otherwise continuum surface and are not tightly clustered, the head is as large as it is capable of being. To harvest, cut the stalk below the head leaving 8 to 10 inches of stem and attached leaves. Chill immediately.
CABBAGE - When cabbage heads become solid and the sides or top cannot be pressed in with the thumb, it is mature and large as it will get.
CAULIFLOWER - Cauliflower heads should be harvested when they reach a 4 to 8 inch diameter size and are firm and compact. Maximum size potential can be determined by watching the floret development, same as broccoli. To harvest, cut the stalk just below the head.
CARROTS - Most varieties of carrots fully mature within 60 to 85 days but can be pulled and consumed earlier. Crown size can be an indicator. The crown, where the foliage attaches to the root, usually attains at least a 3/4 inch diameter size when the carrot is fully mature. Another surefire technique is to pull the largest carrot and examine the bottom or growing tip. If the tip is orange the carrot is mature. If the tip is white the carrot is still growing and will continue to enlarge. There is no need to harvest the carrot crop all at once. Carrots can be left in the ground after they mature for several weeks without adverse affects.
CUCUMBERS - Harvest when fruits are bright, firm and green, but before they get too large. One to two inches in diameter is about right with the smaller size best for pickling. All nubbins, poorly shaped or light-colored, fruits should be picked and discarded. If possible, do not store in refrigerator for more than two days. It is best to pickle cucumbers the same day picked.
GREENS - Harvest before leaves start turning yellow or brown, while they are young and tender. Slight bronze tints are normal on mustard greens. Avoid wilted or flabby leaves. Wash and chill immediately.
PEPPERS - Harvest when peppers are 4-5 inches long with full, well-formed lobes. Immature peppers will be soft, pliable, thin-fleshed, and pale in color. Wash and chill immediately.
SPINACH - Harvest when six or more leaves have formed that are crisp and dark green. Wash gently and chill immediately. Cut or break leaves from the plant so that resprouting will occur.
SQUASH - Harvest when fruit is 4-6 inches long for yellow crookneck squash, 6-9 inches for yellow straight neck, and 3-4 inches in diameter for white scallop. Glossy color indicates tenderness. Wash, dry and store in a warm area of the refrigerator. Squash, like cucumbers, are susceptible to chilling injury and should not be stored for more than two days.
TOMATOES - Harvest at pink stage and ripen in a warm area of the house. This will not affect flavor and may save loss due to insect, neighbor and bird damage.
Baytown Sun Published September 26, 2009 As the warm months of summer begin cooling off with the approach of fall, now is the time to start planning your fall and winter garden. Remember: just because the temperatures drop, you do not have to let your yard turn into a wasteland!
GROWING A FALL GARDEN
So you want to grow garden fresh vegetables this fall. Where do you start? Simply looking at seed packets in catalogs or local nurseries will not get the job done. One must garden smartly if economical production and utilization are expected.
Once the decision to have a fall garden has been reached, a gardener must take action. One must pull out some of those plants that have been nurtured from "babies" in the spring to monsters now. It is recommend that all plants be removed except okra, cherry tomatoes and pole beans if the foliage is healthy. Large-fruited tomatoes may have some small ones still hanging on, but unless you have at least 20-25 good-sized fruit, pull them out. Pull the old plants up and discard them. Don't try to compost insect and disease-ridden plants.
Then, determine where to put the garden. The major consideration for garden placement is sunlight. All vegetables require some sunlight; the most popular vegetables require full sun (at least 8 hours of intense, direct exposure). If such exposure is not received by crops like tomatoes, peppers and squash (vegetables that contain seed), the plants grow spindly – they have weak stems, drop blooms and are generally nonproductive. There are vegetables that produce passably in the shade. Generally, those crops such as greens, broccoli, cauliflower and root crops (carrots, turnips) which do not produce a fruit with seed will yield sparingly in semi- shaded areas, but even these crops will do better in a full sun condition. Crops such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans and cucumbers may not produce anything if grown in the shade; plants will grow tall and spindly.
Some gardeners believe shading is beneficial, but remember that commercial vegetable producers never shade crops. Use shade-tolerant crops for planting between larger growing vegetables such as tomatoes.
Do not locate the garden within 6 feet of hedges, shrubs or trees.
If a new garden site has been selected and it was previously covered with grass, this turf must be removed. Don't think that you can dig or till this existing grass into the garden soil and get rid of it. New garden areas are doomed before they begin if all bermuda and other lawn grass is not completely removed before tillage begins.
What about chemicals that might be applied to the grass to kill it rather than pulling it out? There are several brand names which contain the weed and grass killer glyphosate. These include Roundup and Kleenup – check ingredients on label for the term "glyphosate" and follow label instructions for application rate.
Once the sod has been removed, the garden area should be shoveled to a depth of 10-12 inches. Rototillers can be used to loosen and mix shoveled areas. Apply 1 to 2 inches of coarse (sharp), washed sand and 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to the garden site surface and incorporate to improve the soil's physical quality. The soil's physical condition will have to be altered over a period of time rather than trying to develop desirable soil in a season or two.
The addition of fertilizer is the next step. You have two options. You can add only one pound of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) per one hundred square feet (10 feet by 10 feet) and use ammonium sulfate every three weeks at the rate of one tablespoon sprinkled around each plant and watered in as a sidedress application for hybrid tomatoes and peppers. The second fertilization choice is to use 2-3 pounds of a slow release fertilizer (19-5-9, 21-7-14, 25-5-10) per 100 square feet of garden area. Even if slow release fertilizer is used, it is still recommended to use ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) every three weeks at the rate of one tablespoon sprinkled around each plant. Horse or cattle manures may be substituted for commercial fertilizer and used at a rate of 60-80 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area.
After all ingredients have been added, mix the soil thoroughly and prepare beds on which to plant rows of vegetables. These beds should be 30-36 inches apart to allow for easy movement through the garden area when plants get larger. Pile and firm the planting beds then pre-irrigate the entire garden area by wetting with a sprinkler for at least two hours. Allow the area to dry for several days and it will be ready to plant.
Proper timing is probably the most important factor in successful fall gardening. Regardless of variety selected or cultural practices used, if a gardener does not do the right thing at the right time, any chances of success are diminished.
See the chart that lists the planting dates for the Southeast Texas region (Page 12C) to see when to begin planting vegetables. Remember these are "average" planting dates for the region.
With these dates in mind, a gardener can decide which frost-susceptible vegetables to plant, when to plant and whether to use transplants or seeds.
Fall vegetable crops are categorized as long-term and short- term crops. Duration of these crops depends on when the first killing frost occurs and the cold tolerance of the vegetables.
Plant long-term, frost-tolerant vegetables together. Frost- tolerant vegetables include beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, collards, garlic, kale, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsley, spinach and turnips.
Plant short-term, frost-susceptible vegetables together, so that they can be removed after being killed by frost. Frost-susceptible vegetables include beans, cantaloupes, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, okra, peas, peppers, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, tomatoes and watermelons.
HARVESTING OF FALL
GARDEN PRODUCE
After gardeners have worked so hard and so long to grow fresh, could-be-delicious produce, many are often robbed of their potential goodness because of improper, ill-timed harvesting. To avoid that occurrence, a number of the most popular garden vegetables and the harvest procedure for each are listed.
BEANS, SNAP - Harvest before maturity when pods are not completely full for maximum tenderness. Wash immediately and refrigerate.
BEETS - Early beets should be pulled from the row when about 2 inches in diameter. Remove all but about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of the tops. Wash and refrigerate immediately.
BROCCOLI - Broccoli heads should be harvested when they reach a 4 to 8 inch diameter and are firm and compact. Maximum size potential can be determined by watching the floret development. Broccoli heads appear to be singular structures when actually they are composed of many individual flowers called florets. When individual groups of florets begin to loosen and emerge from the otherwise continuum surface and are not tightly clustered, the head is as large as it is capable of being. To harvest, cut the stalk below the head leaving 8 to 10 inches of stem and attached leaves. Chill immediately.
CABBAGE - When cabbage heads become solid and the sides or top cannot be pressed in with the thumb, it is mature and large as it will get.
CAULIFLOWER - Cauliflower heads should be harvested when they reach a 4 to 8 inch diameter size and are firm and compact. Maximum size potential can be determined by watching the floret development, same as broccoli. To harvest, cut the stalk just below the head.
CARROTS - Most varieties of carrots fully mature within 60 to 85 days but can be pulled and consumed earlier. Crown size can be an indicator. The crown, where the foliage attaches to the root, usually attains at least a 3/4 inch diameter size when the carrot is fully mature. Another surefire technique is to pull the largest carrot and examine the bottom or growing tip. If the tip is orange the carrot is mature. If the tip is white the carrot is still growing and will continue to enlarge. There is no need to harvest the carrot crop all at once. Carrots can be left in the ground after they mature for several weeks without adverse affects.
CUCUMBERS - Harvest when fruits are bright, firm and green, but before they get too large. One to two inches in diameter is about right with the smaller size best for pickling. All nubbins, poorly shaped or light-colored, fruits should be picked and discarded. If possible, do not store in refrigerator for more than two days. It is best to pickle cucumbers the same day picked.
GREENS - Harvest before leaves start turning yellow or brown, while they are young and tender. Slight bronze tints are normal on mustard greens. Avoid wilted or flabby leaves. Wash and chill immediately.
PEPPERS - Harvest when peppers are 4-5 inches long with full, well-formed lobes. Immature peppers will be soft, pliable, thin-fleshed, and pale in color. Wash and chill immediately.
SPINACH - Harvest when six or more leaves have formed that are crisp and dark green. Wash gently and chill immediately. Cut or break leaves from the plant so that resprouting will occur.
SQUASH - Harvest when fruit is 4-6 inches long for yellow crookneck squash, 6-9 inches for yellow straight neck, and 3-4 inches in diameter for white scallop. Glossy color indicates tenderness. Wash, dry and store in a warm area of the refrigerator. Squash, like cucumbers, are susceptible to chilling injury and should not be stored for more than two days.
TOMATOES - Harvest at pink stage and ripen in a warm area of the house. This will not affect flavor and may save loss due to insect, neighbor and bird damage.